Chain choke
collars are an antiquated method of training in this
day and age of "Motivational" training
methods and modern technology. To be sure, some dogs
do require a "training collar" and handlers
should not be shy about asking for one if it is
needed, but there are many other options and your
instruction team should handle each dog and handler
individually, making recommendations based on your
combined needs. Some dogs can be trained strictly on
their "buckle" collars (ones that don't
tighten up), and may never need a formal training
collar. Other dogs (large breeds, dogs with thick
hair, dogs that pull a lot), may need a training
collar but would prefer not to be "choked".
A chain choke
collar actually cuts off the airway for your dog. It
is very unpleasant and, when used properly, can be an
effective way to "get your dog's
attention". However, more often than not, a
novice handler has difficulty using this collar
effectively and keeps the collar tight, even when the
dog is doing well. We feel that when a dog can't
breathe, it can't think, so other collars, while they
may look "stronger", are actually much more
humane for your dog and usually get better results.
In addition, many times a dog that is being choked
has no idea of how to discontinue the discomfort and
can become frenzied or uncooperative, producing the
opposite of what you are trying to achieve. Chain
choke collars tend to become snagged in the hair of
"furry" dogs, such as German Shepherds,
Chows, Golden Retrievers, etc., and may
"pull" the dogs' hair when the leash is
pulled, causing pain and confusion for the dog.
Other options
to chain chokes include the "prong" or
"pinch" collar. While it may look like a
medieval torture device, with prongs facing into the
dog's neck, it is actually quite tame. The prongs are
blunt (not at all sharp!) and when used on the
"dead ring", which is how it is most often
fitted, it does not even tighten up, and, therefore,
does not "choke" your dog, causing him to
relax. The effect is more like poking yourself in the
neck with your fingers and the pressure is only felt
in the direction the dog is pulling (usually in the
front), so the dog has a clear idea of how to
"turn it off" - simply not pulling forward
will release it from all pressure. We call this the
"power steering" collar and many, many
students will attest to its effectiveness and lack of
"fighting" on the part of the dog (since he
is not being choked!). Prongs are especially good
with furry dogs, as the prongs do not pull or damage
the hair. Prongs come in many sizes to fit just about
any kind of dog.
For those who
are turned off by the mere appearance of a prong
collar, or whose dogs do not require a strong
training collar, there are leather chokes and nylon
snap-around chokes, both of which are
"softer" than a standard chain choke
collar, although they still require a concerted
effort on the part of the handler not to constantly
hold the dog tightly, as they still can choke the
dog.
For dogs who do
not require any force at all, but may tend to
"back out" of their buckle collars, there
is the "no-slip" or "martingale"
collar, which is primarily a buckle with a slight
leeway to tighten up just enough when the dog pulls
to keep the collar from coming over his head. This
can be a nice and gentle alternative for dogs who
pull out of buckle collars but do not require a
formal training collar.
Training
collars of any kind should never be left on your dog
when you are not supervising him!
The leash that
you use in training can be most anything that you
feel comfortable with. Normally, we recommend
something 4' to 6' in length, made of anything except
chain. Nylon can burn your hands if your dog pulls
quickly away, so cotton or leather are our favorites.
We stock cotton web leads come in two widths and 2',
4', and 6' lengths (as well as 20', 25' and 50' long
lines) and leather leads are available in a nearly
infinite combination of lengths and widths.
A
"Flexi" lead is a retractable long line
used for a variety of casual and training activities,
including teaching the dog to come when called from a
distance. Though not required for class, it is
strongly recommended and has many, many uses in
everyday life.
An "Object
of Attraction" or training treats are strongly
recommended to be used as "rewards" for
proper behavior. While we eventually will require the
dog to perform his commands whether you have a treat
or not, it helps in the early training process and
keeps his motivation up. One of your jobs, as the
handler, is to find out what motivates your dog
(food, tennis ball, squeaky toy, etc.) Some dogs are
motivated sufficiently by praise that treats or
objects of attraction may not be necessary and some
dogs don't seem to interested in much of anything to
the degree that it is helpful in training. Our
instructors are experienced and knowledgeable about
training motivation and will help you decide what, if
anything, should be used to motivate such dogs.
Dogs Unlimited carries the widest
variety of training equipment anywhere in our area.
Give us a call or come by. Our trainers will help you
choose the equipment that is best for your needs. If
you are scheduling a class with us, you can wait
until your first class to get equipment fitted - just
bring your dog in your normal buckle collar and
whatever lead you already have (except chain). Your
instructors will advise you if they think you need to
use different equipment to train your dog.